Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe offers convenience, solid terrain

Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe overlooking Reno, Nev., may be the most conveniently located ski area in the country. At just 22 miles from Reno-Tahoe International Airport, Mt. Rose is closer to a major airport than any other U.S. ski area of more than 200 skiable acres.

Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe may be seen in the distance above
downtown Reno, Nev.            Photo: Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe

While local Reno skiers account for many of the resort’s visits, destination travelers can get in some bonus skiing on a travel day in or out of Reno. 

The ski area’s name is a misnomer, because the ski runs are on Slide Mountain across the highway from the actual Mt. Rose. The eastern side of Slide Mountain was once Reno Ski Bowl, then renamed Slide Mountain Ski Area. Slide Mountain’s north-facing slopes were the separate Mt. Rose Ski Area until the two merged in 1987.

Between the two formerly distinct ski areas, 200 acres of north-facing extreme terrain known as “The Chutes” was opened in 2004. The addition brought Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe’s skiable terrain up to 1,200 acres and a vertical drop of 1,800 feet.

Unlike many smaller areas burdened with antiquated lifts, two 6-pack chairlifts dominate the ski experience at Mt. Rose. The lifts were installed in 2000 and 2004. 

Gold Run at Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe offers soft moguls
in the morning sun.                         Photo: Eric Wagnon

On a bluebird day, most skiers start the day on the sunny east-facing Slide Bowl and make laps on the Blazing Zephyr 6 chairlift. The terrain is relatively mellow with the bumps on the black-diamond Gold Run and Washoe Zephyr quickly softening up in the morning sun.

A very short hike around to Wild Card on the backside of the mountain generally offers solitude in a quasi-backcountry experience with views of Lake Tahoe. 

The route comes around to the other side of the ski area where the Main Lodge is located. The side that was the original Mt. Rose Ski Area is served by the Northwest Magnum 6 chairlift and a couple of lifts catering to the beginner terrain.

Skiers can enter through nine control gates to reach 16 named chutes— most with 40-55 degree pitches to deservedly earn double-black designations. For maximum challenge, the chute named El Cap provides the full 1,500 vertical feet of The Chutes. 

The Chutes give Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe a section of very
challenging terrain.                            Photo: Eric Wagnon

On the other end of the difficulty spectrum, the much shorter, single-black Cutthroat, Exhibition and Lowball chutes have more of an eastern exposure, so they can soften up and be more forgiving on days when firm conditions predominate elsewhere.

Although Mt. Rose had on-site lodging until 1984, today’s destination visitors either come through on the way to or from other Tahoe resorts or stay in Reno. For a budget ski vacation, many of the casino-hotels in Reno offer amazingly inexpensive room rates and stay-and-ski specials.

Diamond Peak ski area gives value to families

Crystal Ridge, a blue ski run at Diamond Peak, offers
spectacular views of Lake Tahoe.
                           Photo: Diamond Peak/Robyn Scarton

The views of Lake Tahoe should put Crystal Ridge at Diamond Peak ski area in any discussion of the most scenic ski runs in the country. Located on the northeast corner of the lake in Incline Village, Nev., Diamond Peak lives up to its name as a jewel for beginners and families.

“We’ve just been coming here for years. We love the mountain. The price is right and no one is on the slopes, love that,” said Paula Ashcroft, a visitor from Brentwood, Calif. “You go to Squaw Valley and you’re fighting everyone and here you can ski straight on the lift and we just love it.”

Randy Paranick brought his young son, Mason, up from Sacramento, Calif., to teach him to ski. “We chose Diamond Peak, because we heard it had a good family-friendly atmosphere and had a good friend who taught their four-year-old son how to ski here last year,” Paranick said.

The area started as Ski Incline in 1966 and changed its name to Diamond Peak at Ski Incline when the upper mountain with more black-diamond runs opened in 1987.  The Diamond Peak part of the name that has stuck seems ironic in light of the mountain’s reputation for beginners and intermediates.

Solitude Canyon can hold powder for advanced skiers
at Diamond Peak ski area.                 Photo: Eric Wagnon

The advanced terrain on the upper mountain such as The Glades and Solitude Canyon can keep good skiers reasonably entertained for a day. Real adrenaline seekers, however, would likely be happier at Squaw Valley or Alpine Meadows. One exception might be on a storm day, because those other resorts have a much greater probability of wind holds for the lifts.

Diamond Peak draws a fair number of visitors from the nearby Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. A complimentary ski shuttle carries guests the mile distance between the hotel and the ski area.

Ski Resort Profile: Schweitzer, Idaho

Schweitzer Mountain Resort in Sandpoint, Idaho does not have the name recognition factor of a destination like Vail or even Park City. For the skiers who have found this resort in the panhandle of Idaho, Schweitzer’s undiscovered status simply means uncrowded slopes. Not surprisingly, the ski area was picked by Skiing magazine as the “Best Place to Ditch the Crowds.”

The 2,900 acres of skiable terrain make Schweitzer the largest resort in Idaho, exceeding better-known Sun Valley by about a third. The summit elevation of a relatively tame 6,400 feet makes Schweitzer a good choice for those susceptible to altitude sickness. From the summit, the ski area provides 2,400 vertical feet of skiing across two main bowls, Schweitzer Bowl and Outback Bowl. The mountain receives an average annual snowfall of 300 inches.

Assuming the region’s tendency for foggy conditions does not materialize, the scenic views are definitely a highlight of the Schweitzer experience. The centerpiece of the valley, Lake Pend Oreille, covering 148 square miles, may be smaller than Lake Tahoe, measuring 191 square miles, but Idaho’s largest lake may be just as picturesque. Located just 45 miles south of the Canadian border, Schweitzer is not as difficult to reach as it might seem. Many major airlines fly into Spokane, Wash., an hour-and-a-half drive away from the resort.

(Photo Credit: Schweitzer Mountain Resort)

Resort at Squaw Creek adds luxury to Squaw Valley

The Resort at Squaw Creek features ski-in, ski-out
access to California's Squaw Valley USA ski area.
                                   Photo: Resort at Squaw Creek

Challenging steeps and a local subculture of skiers who have mastered those lines have defined the reputation of Squaw Valley USA for years. 

About 2,700 feet in elevation below the chutes of the famed Palisades, however, the Resort at Squaw Creek serves as a luxurious respite from the adrenaline rush on the California slopes. 

Located on the far eastern edge of the ski-area layout, the Resort at Squaw Creek has the Squaw Creek triple chairlift very conveniently located outside the back door. While most hotel guests can take advantage of ski-in, ski-out access on this chairlift serving intermediate terrain, absolute beginners would want to take the free shuttle over to the main village base. Incidentally, the tree skiing just above the hotel served by the Squaw Creek and Red Dog lifts is prime territory on storm days when wind often shuts down the rest of the 4,000-acre ski area.

Having been named one of Conde Nast Traveler’s “Top 50 Ski Hotels” in North America, the Resort at Squaw Creek is also only a five-minute drive from Alpine Meadows ski area. Alpine Meadows is sometimes described as a “mini-Squaw,” but with 2,400 acres of skiable terrain, the ski area is sizable enough to be a destination in its own right. The same lift tickets are valid at both resorts.

(Travel accomodations were provided during visit.)

Heavenly Mountain Resort spans two states

Resort covers 4,800 acres

Overlooking Lake Tahoe, Heavenly Mountain Resort straddles the border of California and Nevada across 4,800 acres within its ski-area permit. Negotiating that huge expanse can be challenging for first-time visitors.

Skiers can start at one of four different base areas-- two in each state. The oldest base, the California Lodge, sits below the famous Gunbarrel mogul run. The gondola in Heavenly Village is located a few hundred yards inside California, just a short walk from the "casino corridor" across the border in Nevada. The Boulder Lodge, catering to beginners, and the Stagecoach Lodge are the two options actually in Nevada.

Gondola acts as stairway to Heavenly

The gondola carries visitors above terrain outside the ski area boundaries from an elevation of 6,255 feet in Heavenly Village to at 9,156 feet. The top of the gondola puts skiers in the midst of trails as blue as the lake itself. For intermediate skiing, the Tamarack Express, Comet Express and Dipper Express chairlifts serve classic Heavenly cruisers such as Comet, Orion and Big Dipper.

Tree-skiing found throughout ski area

Much of the more advanced skiing at Heavenly is found in the trees in between the blue cruisers. On the plus side, the layout allows groups of differing abilities to ski together. The downside for advanced skiers, however, is that the intermediate masses are more difficult to avoid as far as the liftlines that can build up on weekends.

Experts head to Mott, Killebrew Canyons

While Heavenly has a reputation as an intermediate mountain, expert terrain definitely exists within its boundaries. Mott and Killebrew Canyons offer plenty of steeps. The areas are accessed through gates on the Nevada side. 

Midwest skiers head to Boyne Mountain

Particularly for Midwestern families looking for a complete resort experience, Michigan's Boyne Mountain offers a more affordable alternative to flying out West. At just 500 vertical feet, Boyne makes the most of its modest topography.

The 2005 opening of the base area's Mountain Grand Lodge and Spa, along with the adjacent Avalanche Bay Indoor Waterpark, elevated the resort to another level in terms of the guest experience. The hotel's family atmosphere with faux Swiss and Austrian decor has a slight Disney-esque tone.

As such, there is a reason why Disney World and Boyne Mountain for that matter are so popular with families. Entertainment and amenities are always close at hand.

After a day of skiing, a family can leave their equipment at a free ski check just outside the hotel, change into swimsuits in their room, and never need to go back outside for an indoor waterpark visit. At 88,000-square-feet, Avalanche Bay is the largest indoor waterpark in Michigan.

Skiers explore 415 skiable acres

The skiing and snowboarding, nonetheless, are still the main attractions at Boyne Mountain. Sophisticated snowmaking provides good coverage for the 415-acre area that generally receives under 150 inches of natural snow each winter. When the natural snow has filled in however, a few off-piste delights can be found. In particular, the unnamed glades just off the top of the Superbowl chairlift can give a decent taste of skiing in the West on much bigger mountains.

While Boyne does have a few short, steep shots such as Nose Dive and Devil's Dive, beginners have even more options. "If I have kids with me, I like Disciples," said Cary Adgate, a former Olympian with lifelong ties to the ski area. "It about traffic. It’s a little longer trek to get back there, but there’s less traffic. It’s more of a relaxed pace and you can do what you want to and you’re not worried about what any one else is doing and with kids with you, you’re not rushed."

Thanks to 12 chairlifts, including the world's first six-person lift installed in 1992, Boyne usually has the lift capacity to handle the weekend rush without long liftlines. During non-holiday weeks, lines are definitely not an issue.

"If I lived downstate and I had to chose between three weekends and doing a whole week up here, I’d go for the week every time, because you really get your choice of everything," Adgate said. "I just like midweek because you get the run of the place. It’s like having your own private ski area."

The lift tickets at Boyne Mountain are also good at Boyne Highlands Resort about a 30-minute drive to the north. Both Boyne Mountain and Boyne Highlands offer night skiing on Wednesdays through Saturdays. Boyne Mountain is located 250 miles from Detroit, 340 miles from Chicago, and 405 miles from Cleveland.

---

(Disclosure: Travel accommodations were provided during visit to Boyne Mountain.)